1940s Universal Geneve ‘Compax’ Ref. 12545 in 18K Rose Gold

$6,900.00

Universal Genève occupies a singular position in the history of the Swiss chronograph. Through the 1940s and 1950s, the maison produced a body of work — the Compax, the Tri-Compax, the Aero-Compax — that combined technical sophistication with a dial design language more expressive and inventive than almost anything else Geneva was producing at the time. The Compax was the foundation of that family: a chronograph with a telemeter or tachymeter outer track, built around movements of genuine quality and housed in cases that ranged from modest steel to precious metal in sizes that, by the standards of the era, were genuinely imposing. The reference 12545 in 18k rose gold is among the more desirable Compax configurations — the warm metal complementing the dial architecture in a way that yellow gold never quite matches.

This particular circa mid-1940s example carries a detail that immediately separates it from the standard catalogue: an oversized, painted Roman numeral XII that dominates the upper dial with an almost theatrical confidence. Not the full ‘dodicione’ treatment, but firmly in that spirit — a dial that refuses to be subtle. It is completely original and untouched, its rose gold-foil box indices catching the light with a warmth and depth that applied indices on later watches rarely achieve. All printings remain clearly legible, including the ‘base 1000’ outer track — a detail that frequently deteriorates on lesser examples. The original blued steel hands are preserved in fantastic condition, their color vivid and unrestored. The 18k rose gold case is unpolished, carrying only light signs of wear for its age, original square pushers and crown all present and correct. The case itself was manufactured by Jung & Cie — Hammerhead 128 — at a jumbo 37mm diameter, a genuinely imposing size for a 1940s chronograph that wears with corresponding authority. Even the original spring bars are present here. Caliber 287 running strong, all functions working properly. Suited on an elegant dark brown leather strap.

A Compax in rose gold that knows exactly what it is — and wears it loudly.

Brand: Universal Geneve

Model: Compax

Reference: 12545

Serial: 905xxx

Year: circa 1945

Case material: 18k Rose Gold

Case dimensions: 37mm excluding crown

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph

Caliber: Universal Geneve cal. 287 Manual Wind

Strap: Dark brown leather strap with steel buckle

Crystal: Acrylic