1986 Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16753 ‘Root Beer’ Nipple with Box, Papers and invoice

$14,900.00

The Rolex GMT-Master reference 16753 occupied a specific and quietly distinguished position in the 1675’s successor lineup — the two-tone variant of the 16750, pairing stainless steel with an 18k yellow gold bezel ring, crown and bracelet elements to produce the Root Beer combination in its most accessible form. Introduced in the early 1980s as part of Rolex’s transitional generation between the classic four-digit references and the incoming modern sports watch era, the 16753 carried the Root Beer aesthetic into the quickset date era with the calibre 3075 underneath — a meaningful practical upgrade that the 1675 had never offered. The ‘Nipple’ dial configuration, with its raised dome tritium plots, belongs to the earlier production vocabulary of the reference and is among the most sought-after dial variants it produced. What time does to the lacquered surface of these dials — when conditions allow — is something no designer anticipated and no restorer can reproduce.

The dial on this 1986 example has done something extraordinary. The dark brown lacquer has lifted and separated at certain points across the surface, revealing the substrate beneath in vivid bursts of warm amber and burnt orange — like embers glowing through a layer of cooling ash, or lava finding its way between volcanic rock. Under macro it reads as almost geological; in hand, under shifting light, it is hypnotic. This is not water damage or deterioration — it is a well-documented and deeply sought characteristic of these lacquered soleil dials, a manufacturing idiosyncrasy that decades of natural aging transform into something collectors actively pursue. The ‘Nipple’ hour markers have aged to a lovely sandy patina, the original handset matching throughout. The ‘Root Beer’ bezel insert shows light fading and normal signs of use, its warm two-tone character fully intact. The stainless steel case is in superb condition — thick lugs, sharp bevels, factory brushing crisp, minor signs of wear only. On its original 78363 folded-links Oyster in steel and 18k yellow gold with 480 end links and L9 clasp, virtually no stretch and minimal wear marks only.

The set is as complete as they come. Outer box, inner box, wallet, booklets, manuals, red seal hang tag, matching serialized hang tag, punched guarantee papers — all present. But the headline document is the original sales invoice, matching the guarantee papers to the day: 13th October 1995, issued by an authorized Indonesian Rolex retailer, for 11.200.000 Indonesian Rupiah. At the exchange rate of the time, that equated to approximately 4.800–5.200 USD — which in today’s purchasing power represents roughly 10.000–11.000 USD after inflation rates. A number that quietly underscores how much this watch has appreciated in real terms since the day it left that Jakarta counter.

A Root Beer Nipple 16753 with its ember dial, its original invoice, and a Jakarta story to tell — complete in every sense of the word.

Brand: Rolex

Model: GMT-Master

Reference: 16753

Serial: 9198xxx

Year: 1986

Case material: Stainless steel case and 18k yellow gold bezel and crown

Case dimensions: 40mm excluding crown

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and GMT

Caliber: Rolex cal. 3075 Automatic

Bracelet: Rolex Oyster 78363 18 stainless steel and 18k yellow gold folded-links bracelet with 480 end links and clasp code L9

Crystal: Acrylic

Accessories: Outer box, inner box, wallet, booklets, manuals, red seal hang tag, serialized hang tag, punched guarantee papers and original sales invoice

Service: Unknown